Wedding Rings

Glaze on wedding portraits

Question:

Don’t forget the mounting offered with the larger print.  A picture by itself if very flimsy and subject to creases.  The artboard gives the print strength. Brett

Response:

>>hi, >    We soon will order photos from our wedding photographer and >have a question about the protective glaze used on wedding portraits. >      Our photographer charges $95 for a basic 11X14 wall portrait, >mounted on art board (no frame) with a ‘protective glaze’.  (He also offers

I do wedding photo and work from my home.  that includes occasional spraying of enlargements.  Some of the albums I order for my clients have the pictures already mounted and sprayed at their factory.  I can tell you, that from experience of doing the spraying in my home, that it is a very unpleasant task involving a toxic material.  I know of at least one case where a prominent wedding photographer’s studio was destroyed as a result of an accident with print spraying!  The only reason I still do it is that most labs won’t spray the prints under 8×10.  I am considering revising my plans to eliminate the albums taht don’t include factory mounting and spraying, or adding a heft charge for doing the spraying myself. If you are considering doing the spraying yourself and chose to ignore the advice given in other postings about this, then read on; here is what I do: I use my garage with the door open, because the stuff stinks up the house terribly.  I also need to avoid damp or cold weather conditions. I have a collection of flat pieces of cardboard to place the prints on.  Flat non-corrugated cardboard is best, since the corrugations can become visible in the spray texture fo some reason. I have tried many sprays, including some sold specifically for pictures and found DuPont Krylon Matte spray to be far and above the best.  ONe can will do 3-4 24-paqge albums of mixed sizes.  I also keep some lacquer thinner on hand in case a print gets messed up (dust, runs, smears, etc.).  Wind and dust are enemies.  IF the prints are dropped wet, the coating will smear and pick up dust.  So the board of prints must be handled very carefully.  The surface must be free of dust, lint, and moisture. I apply 1-2 coats and strivefor a thin wet look.  Too much causes runs and may trap air bubbles, which will dry ina very cloudy appearance.  Better to start with two thin coats.  If anything messes up a spot, better to strip of the coating with lacquer thinner and a paper towel. There is no way repeated coats will cover up a glich in the coating!!! If you do find a small fiber of lint, remove it without disturbing the wet spray.  Sometimes it is actually better to remove it after the coating dries. The prints must dry thoroughly before handling.  Make sure there is no wetness underneath; if you stack those prints, you’ll mess up whatever that wetness touches and its back to square one! I think it is very important to have a sprayed coating.  The emulsion (dye) surface of a print is inherently porous at a micriscopic level. I can easily trap dirt, skin oils, and other contaminants.  I question how much the sprays prtect from direct sunlight impingement, but in my experience, handling damage is more likely for album photos. For prints to be wall mounted, avoid locations with sun impingement. There are several UV protective films and lacquers available from pro wedding and portrait labs.  Through experience, I learned that a glass-encased framed print should NEVER be exposed to direct sunlight; the combo will act like a solar collector used for hot water making, causing the print or artwork to reach 200 F or more!  Mildew and mold can also form under the glass or plastic, but a well-coated print will be much less likely to suffer from this.    /|/| /||)|/  /~ /| ||)[~|)/~   |   Everyone’s entitled to MY opinion.

Response:

>hi, >    We soon will order photos from our wedding photographer and >have a question about the protective glaze used on wedding portraits. >      Our photographer charges $95 for a basic 11X14 wall portrait, >mounted on art board (no frame) with a ‘protective glaze’.  (He also offers >more expensive options, which include retouching, etc …) >     We are considering foregoing the portrait and instead ordering

{snip} The "glaze" is a usually a lacquer compound applied (preferably) by the processing lab. It can be ordered single or double coat, "diamond" gloss or "lustre" (satin finish) and can   even have brush strokes applied to give your finished print a "painterly effect". I wouldn’t   try this myself for several reasons: It the lab screws up the print they just make a new one.   If you screw it up – - -. The lacquer that is compatible with the organic dyes used in the   print can’t be found just anywhere; and last but not least; spraying lacquer is dangerous! The   labs use special filtered and explosion-proofed ventilating booths for this work. If you try to   do it in a safe place (e.g. outdoors), dust, gnats, and who knows what else can contaminate   your work. "Be careful about what you ask for – you might just get it"

Response:

hi,     We soon will order photos from our wedding photographer and have a question about the protective glaze used on wedding portraits.       Our photographer charges $95 for a basic 11X14 wall portrait, mounted on art board (no frame) with a ‘protective glaze’.  (He also offers more expensive options, which include retouching, etc …)      We are considering foregoing the portrait and instead ordering several 10X10 photos from him at a much lower price ($21) apiece and framing them ourselves.       Is the glaze that wedding photographers use particularly helpful in preserving the photos?  If so, does it protect against light damage or scratching?  Can we apply this ourselves, or have it applied elsewhere for a much lower price?           Thanks very much for your help. Geoff

Response:

: hi, :     We soon will order photos from our wedding photographer and : have a question about the protective glaze used on wedding portraits. :       Our photographer charges $95 for a basic 11X14 wall portrait, : mounted on art board (no frame) with a ‘protective glaze’.  (He also offers : more expensive options, which include retouching, etc …) :      We are considering foregoing the portrait and instead ordering : several 10X10 photos from him at a much lower price ($21) apiece and : framing them ourselves. :       Is the glaze that wedding photographers use particularly helpful : in preserving the photos?  If so, does it protect against light damage : or scratching?  Can we apply this ourselves, or have it applied : elsewhere for a much lower price?     :       Thanks very much for your help. : Geoff Geoff, Many photographers spray (or have the lab do it) their photographs with a spray that has UV inhibitors.  This helps protect against fingerprints and the like and help protect against UV (ultraviolet) light.  This is supposed to help protect your photograph from fluorescent light and sunlight.  Some people question how effective this is.  You can buy spray cans at professional photography supply houses and stores.  Be sure to practice on "junk" prints first.  It does take some skill to do it.  Also you’ll have to do it outside because of the strong vapor (professionals who do it regularly have a spray booth).  I usually have my lab do it.  I only will spray when I absolutely have to.  It’s fairly easy to get a "blob" or run or uneven spray.  Ask your photographer to show you photographs with and without this "glaze". There are also products  called glazes which  are clear and go on the surface of a print to simulate brush strokes.  These are generally used over canvas prints only. John G. Blair Photography Pasadena, California

Response:

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